Steve Mueller's Digital Scrapbook

Europe 2002

Sunday May 12
Nürnberg, Germany

On this Sunday morning, we traveled south for a daytrip to the historic city of Nürnberg. During the 15^th and 16^th centuries, Nürnberg was one of the largest and most powerful cities in Europe, and the preferred residence of many of Germany's kings. As we drove on the A73 Autobahn, a light rain began to steadily increase and we arrived in a downpour, only to discover that virtually all the shops and restaurants were closed. It was about 10:00 am and we decided that we would wait up to two hours for the situation to improve. In many parts of Europe, it is not unusual for morning rains to give way to relatively dry afternoons. Sure enough, just before Noon, the rain stopped and the town began to show signs of activity. Shops were opening and people were beginning to appear, seemingly out of nowhwere. Although the sky refused to relinquish its dreary appearance, it did dry out enough to allow us to explore the medieval core of Nürnberg. Nürnberg Like Frankfurt, Nürnberg forfeited a significant amount of tangible history during the Second World War. A large portion of the town was damaged during a single air raid near the end of the conflict. Because the town was not repeatedly bombed, most of the damage was fire related, and the structures were not reduced to piles of rubble. The walls remained standing, but the interiors were gutted. As in many medieval European cities, the highest point in Nürnberg is occupied by a defensive castle. In this case, the castle that stands vigil above the city is called the Kaiserberg, which means Imperial Castle. The castle is dominated by the Sinwell Tower, which dates from the 12^th century, and is visible from virtually every area of the town. The grounds of the castle offer panoramic views over the city. We took a German-language tour of the castle, which didn't provide a lot of detailed information, but did allow us to peer out of a few windows for some additional views of Nürnberg. The churches of Nürnberg exemplify uniquely German aspects of medieval Christian architecture. Most medieval (i.e., pre-Renaissance) European churches and cathedrals conform to the "basilica plan," in which an east-west oriented nave forms the main portion of the structure. The high alter is located near the eastern extreme and the main entrance, or west portal, is located at the opposite end. In many cases, north-south oriented transepts were added to symbolize a Latin cross. For the disoriented tourist, these buildings serve as a convenient compass, provided that one can differentiate between pre- and post-Renaissance ecclesiastical structures. Unlike religious structures in France and England, which collectively exhibit a distinct transition between Romanesque and Gothic styles, many German churches and cathedrals tend to merge the two styles into a unique design often referred to as "German Gothic." In the majority of cases, the earlier style dominants, imparting the characteristic fortress-like appearance of Romanesque churches, with massive piers, thick walls, and sturdy facade towers. Despite the overall Romanesque appearance, however, some of the more subtle Gothic features are clearly evident. For example, two of Nürnberg's most notable churches, the Lorenzkirche and the Frauenkirche, feature pointed, rather than rounded, arches and are decorated with latticed stone work. The Lorenzkirche has a classic Gothic rose window and the Frauenkirche has the relatively large windows characteristic of Gothic architecture. The boxy appearance of the Frauenkirche is an excellent example of the "Hallenkirche," or "hall church," variation of German Gothic ecclesiastical architecture. The 14th century Frauenkirche forms a backdrop for the largest Christmas market in Germany, held annually for the past 400 years in the Nürnberg Hauptmarkt (Market Square). The oldest, and perhaps most interesting, church in Nürnberg is the 13^th century St Sebalduskirche. Saint Sebaldus was an 11^th missionary to the Teutonic tribes. According to legend, local farmers placed the corpse of Sebaldus on an oxcart, and buried his body where the oxen stopped. His burial place soon became a site of pilgrimage and eventually this church was constructed over the site. In addition to the Church of Our Lady, the Hauptmarkt is the location of the 60 ft tall Beautiful Fountain, although the contemporary monument is a post-WWII replica. One of the most photographed buildings in Nürnberg is the Holy Ghost Hospital viewed from the nearby Fleischbrücke. Unfortunately, on this dreary day, our photographs did not capture the brilliant blue skies typically reflected in the river. Due, in part, to the fact that we had a limited amount of time, we did not seek out the more modern aspects of Nürnberg, which is the second largest city in Bavaria after Munich. Of course, Nürnberg is familiar to many for its associations with Nazi Germany. In some sense, this city embodied both the beginning and the end of those disturbing times. It is remembered for the pre-war rallies, but also the post-war trials. Anyone that has actually visited Nürnberg, however, will more likely remember the ancient cathedrals, beautiful fountains, and quintessential Bavarian atmosphere.
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